Exe Estuary Trail from Dawlish

The trail kicks off right at the edge of Dawlish Warren, where the railway hugs the shoreline like an old friend. From the car park by the nature reserve entrance, you pick up the signed path that skirts the dunes and heads west along the water. Gravel underfoot crunches softly, and the air carries that sharp tang of sea salt mixed with mudflats.

It’s the sort of walk that pulls you in without fanfare – one minute you’re dodging gorse bushes, the next you’re scanning for avocets probing the shallows.

This stretch, about five miles to Topsham if you’re feeling ambitious, follows the Exe Estuary’s southern bank. The river widens here into a proper inlet, fringed by reed beds that rustle in the breeze. Oystercatchers pipe from the spit at Cockwood, their black-and-white plumage stark against the grey-green water.

Further on, the path dips behind shingle banks, offering glimpses of sailing dinghies tacking against the tide. At Lympstone, the route climbs slightly to thread through village lanes lined with thatched cottages, their gardens spilling over with fuchsias still blooming late in the season.

Back towards Dawlish, the trail loops through the warren’s dunes, where marram grass sways like it’s got a secret. Boardwalks thread across the wetter patches, keeping boots dry on rainy days, which are plentiful enough in these parts.

The reserve itself buzzes with activity: little egrets stalking fish, or a curlew’s haunting call echoing at dusk. It’s a haven for twitchers, but even without binoculars, the drama of the birds unfolding against the horizon holds its own.

Practicalities sort themselves out easily. The path suits bikes too, with smooth surfaces most of the way, though watch for walkers on narrower bits.

Pack a thermos for a sit-down by the old lifeboat station ruins – those weathered timbers make a fine perch for watching the estuary breathe with the tides. In summer, the trail shades under blackthorn hedges heavy with sloes; come autumn, fungi speckle the verges in earthy tones.

Locals swear by the quiet hours just after dawn, when the mist lifts to show seals nosing offshore. For something livelier, the weekend sailors add a splash of colour, their spinnakers billowing like kites. Either way, it’s a route that rewards repetition, each visit tweaking the view with the light’s shift or a rare migrant bird.

Reviews paint a consistent picture: walkers on AllTrails rate it 4.7 out of 5, highlighting the “peaceful vibes and easy access” alongside occasional gripes about wind-whipped sections. TripAdvisor echoes this, with 80% of comments praising the wildlife encounters, though a few note the need for sturdy shoes after wet weather.